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( Frontispiece .) 


EARLY  BLACK  CRANBERRY. 


CAPE  COD 

U l:;  f / i;  l 

CRANBERRIES. 


BY 

JAMES  WEBB. 


ILLUSTRATED. 


NEW  YORK  : 

ORANGE  JUDD  COMPANY, 

52  & 54  LAFAYETTE  PLACE. 
1892. 


.. >,r 

, . ■* 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1886,  by 
DAVID  W.  JUDD, 

in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


PREFACE. 


Having  had  many  years  practical  experience  as  a grower 
of  cranberries,  and  being  familiar  with  the  various  diffi- 
culties which  beset  the  path  of  those  unskilled  in  their 
culture,  I have  been  induced,  at  the  instance  of  friends, 
to  publish  this  book,  containing  the  results  of  my  expe- 
rience, in  the  hope  that  it  will  serve  as  a guide  to  prevent 
others  from  falling  into  such  pit-falls  and  errors  as  have 
many  times  in  the  past  caused  discouragement  and  failure. 

While  I do  not  profess  to  know  all  that  there  is  to  be 
known  on  this  subject,  I am  fully  convinced  that  a sug- 

igestion  of  a practical  man  will  prove  of  some  benefit  to 
those  who  undertake  cranberry  growing  without  previous 
knowledge  or  experience.  Nor  do  I think  it  will  prove 
entirely  without  avail  to  some  who  may  previously  have 
tried  cranberry  culture. 

Undoubtedly  both  labor  and  money  may  be  saved  by 
the  acceptance  of  timely  hints,  thrown  out  for  the  benefit 
' " of  those  most  deeply  concerned  ; for  it  is  a certainty  that, 
under  proper  conditions,  and  in  those  sections  of  the 
country  best  adapted  to  their  culture,  cranberries  can  be 

i successfully  raised,  and  with  as  profitable  results  as  can 
be  obtained  from  any  pursuit  in  which  the  husbandman 
can  engage. 

In  this  belief,  and  with  this  end  in  view,  I have  en- 

(5) 

45<  04 


PKEFACE. 


deayored  to  set  forth  such  information  as  I possess  in  as 
simple  and  lucid  a form  as  possible,  so  that  none  can  fail 
to  understand  the  subject  of  which  I treat,  nor  the  de- 
scriptions which  I give  of  the  locations  to  be  sought,  and 
the  proper  methods  to  be  applied,  to  make  the  culture  of 
cranberries  successful  in  the  highest  degree.  And  now, 
without  further  introduction,  I refer  the  reader  to  the 
contents  of  the  book  for  such  information  as  they  may 
require. 

JAMES  WEBB. 

Cotuit , Mass.,  March  1,  1886. 


CONTENTS. 


Frontispiece,  Early  Black  Cranberry. 3 

Preface 5 

CHAPTER  I. 

How  to  Select  a Bog 9 

CHAPTER  II. 

Clearing  and  Turfing 10 

CHAPTER  III. 

Ditching  and  Draining 13 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Grading  and  Leveling * 14 

CHAPTER  Y. 

Sanding  and  Plowing 16 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Diking  and  Flowing 21 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Varieties  of  the  Cranberry 26 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Injurious  Insects  and  Weeds - 27 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Gathering  and  Shipping  the  Crop 29 

CHAPTER  X. 

Some  Statistics  of  Cranberry  Culture.. 87 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


CHAPTER  I. 

HOW  TO  SELECT  A BOG. 

The  bog  should  be  in  a location  well  protected  from 
frost,  with  a bottom  of  peat,  mud,  or  moss.  Cranberries 
will  grow  equally  well  on  either  foundation.  There 
should  be  sufficient  inclination  to  the  bog  to  afford  fall 
enough  to  allow  the  water  to  be  drained  off  to  eighteen 
inches  below  the  surface.  If  there  is  not  a brook  run- 
ning through  the  bog,  there  should  be  a spring,  or  a 
pond,  above  it,  capable  of  affording  a sufficient  supply 
of  water  to  flow  it  readily.  If  there  is  water  enough  to 
cover  the  vines  completely,  it  is  all  that  is  needed.  The 
bog,  after  it  is  three  years  old,  ought  to  be  flowed  from 
the  first  of  November  until  the  first  of  June,  as  it  is  then 
thoroughly  vined,  and  a crop  may  be  expected.  There 
should  be  a sufficient  supply  of  coarse  sand,  suitable  for 
covering  it,  near  the  bog. 

In  selecting  a bog,  I prefer  a huckleberry,  maple,  or 
cedar  swamp,  to  a fresh  meadow,  for  the  reason  that  it 
costs  less  to  take  care  of  it  after  it  is  planted.  Less  grass 
and  fewer  weeds  will  grow  in  a swamp  after  it  is  first 
cleared,  than  in  a meadow.  The  swamp  on  which  noth- 
ing but  wood  has  grown,  has  the  best  bottom  ; it  is  en- 
(9) 


10 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


riched  by  the  decayed  leaves,  etc.,  of  years,  and  no  nutri- 
ment has  ever  been  taken  from  it  by  other  vegetation. 

No  trees  should  be  allowed  to  grow  near  enough  to  the 
bog  to  shade  it.  Wherever  they  do,  there'will  be  a rank 
growth  of  cranberry  vines,  and  very  little  fruit.  Indeed, 
it  often  happens  that  vines  will  not  produce  at  all  under 
such  conditions  ; and  yet  will  present  the  handsomest 
appearance  of  any  part  of  the  bog.  Pickers  object  to 
picking  where  there  is  too  much  growth  of  vines,  as  these 
tear  their  hands,  the  work  of  picking  is  harder,  and  the 
result  of  the  day’s  work  is  less  profitable. 

Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  most  successful  bogs, 
as  a rule,  are  those  located  where  they  can  be  readily 
flowed,  and  thus  protected  from  the  ravages  of  insects 
and  injury  by  frost,  yet  there  are  some  notable  exceptions 
to  the  rule.  There  are  dry  bogs  under  cultivation  on 
Cape  Cod,  comprising  hundreds  of  acres,  that  have  pro- 
duced well  for  years,  escaping  both  frost  and  Fire-worm. 


CHAPTER  II. 

. CLEARING  AND  TURFING. 

In  clearing  a bog,  we  first  mow  off  all  the  bushes  and 
low  undergrowth.  Next,  we  cut  the  principal  roots  of 
the  large  trees,  and  the  wind  will  generally  blow  them 
over.  The  ground  being  soft,  they  will  pull  up  a great 
mass  of  roots  in  their  fall.  This  is  the  cheapest  and  best 
way  of  getting  rid  of  the  trees.  If  the  trunks  were  cut 
off  above  ground,  it  would  take  many  days’  labor  to  dig 
out  and  chop  off  the  roots,  so  as  to  allow  the  stumps  to 
be  removed.  In  the  simple  way  here  suggested,  we  get  rid 
of  stump  and  all  by  one  operation.  In  case  the  wind 


CLEARING  AND  TURFING. 


11 


does  not  prove  sufficient  to  bring  down  the  trees,  we  pull 
them  down  by  means  of  a tackle.  The  trunks  are  sawed 
up  into  logs  for  box-boards,  or  cut  up  into  cord  wood,  or 
given  away,  as  the  case  may  be — all  depending  upon  the 
size  and  quality  of  the  timber,  and  the  proximity  to 
market. 

The  refuse  tops  and  brush  are  piled  up  in  heaps  and 
burned  on  the  bog,  as  soon  as  they  are  dry  enough.  It 
may  require  six  weeks,  more  or  less,  according  to  the 
weather,  for  these  to  dry.  When  in  proper  condition, 
the  fire  is  started  as  soon  after  a rain  as  possible,  in  order 
to  avoid  any  danger  of  setting  fire  to  the  woods  or  bog. 
Whenever  a fire  occurs,  it  makes  bad  work,  as  the  peat 
and  moss,  of  which  the  bog  is  mainly  composed,  will  take 
fire  readily,  and  it  is  hard  to  extinguish  it  when  once 
under  way.  This  gives  us  another  reason  why,  in  select- 
ing a bog,  it  is  especially  desirable  that  one  with  a good 
flow  of  water  from  a running  stream  should  be  chosen. 
In  case  of  fire,  by  closing  the  gate,  the  water  can  be  con- 
ducted through  the  ditches  until  they  are  filled,  and  the 
surface  of  the  bog  covered  and  the  fire,  however  obdurate, 
will  have  to  yield  to  its  master.  It  was  only  in  the  past 
season  that  vast  tracts  of  the  most  desirable  of  the  New 
Jersey  bogs  were  ruined  from  this  cause — fires  having 
spread  among  them,  and  there  being  no  adequate  supply 
of  water,  immense  damage  was  done,  which  it  will  take 
years  to  repair. 

One  can  not  be  too  particular  in  eradicating  the  roots 
of  maple  trees  and  huckleberry  bushes.  They  sprout  and 
grow  rapidly,  and  if  not  thoroughly  cleared  out,  give 
more  trouble  than  all  other  trees  and  shrubs  combined. 

The  surface  of  the  bog,  after  the  trees  and  underbrush 
have  been  disposed  of,  is  next  cut  into  segments  of  about 
eighteen  inches  square,  by  means  of  an  implement  called 
a “ Turfing  Axe,”  made  especially  for  this  purpose.  Turf- 
ing axes,  which  were  formerly  made  to  order  only,  can 


12 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


now  be  obtained  at  any  good  hardware  store  in  Boston. 
They  consist  of  a thin,  steel  blade,  hatchet-shaped,  and 
about  six  inches  square.  This  blade  is  made  fast  to  a 
stout  hickory  handle,  some  two  feet  and  a half  long,  in 


the  same  manner  as  a common  wood  axe.  In  expert 
hands,  this  axe  does  wonderful  execution  upon  the  tough, 
interlacing  roots,  with  which  the  surface  of  the  bog  is 
filled.  The  method  of  cutting  the  turf  is  this  : One  man 
cuts  across  the  bog,  from  side  to  side  in  parallel  lines,  a 
foot  and  a half  apart,  and  cuts  across  between  the  lines 
at  like  distances.  Two  men,  with  three  or  four-pronged, 
iron-toothed  rakes,  catch  hold  of  the  turf,  as  the  cutter 
goes  along,  and  pull  it  oyer  after  him.  After  being  cut 
into  these  squares,  it  is  desirable  that  the  turf  should  be 
turned  over  very  regularly,  because  the  more  evenly  it  is 


turned  over,  the  easier  will  be  the  work  of  grading. 
Hence,  the  haulers,  or  men  plying  the  rakes,  should  be 
faithful  and  reliable,  giving  attention  to  their  duty,  and 
doing  it  thoroughly  and  well.  No  overseer  who  under- 
stands his  business  will  allow  this  part  of  the  work  to  be 


DITCHING  AND  DRAINING. 


13 


slighted.  The  rakes  are  much  the  same  as  those  used  in 
hauling  out  muck,  and  may  be  found  at  the  hardware 
stores. 


CHAPTER  III. 

DITCHING  AND  DRAINING. 

There  should  be  a main  ditch,  about  four  feet  wide,  as 
near  the  centre  of  the  bog  as  possible.  When  the  bog  is 
excessively  wet,  other  ditches  should  be  run  at  distances 
of  five  rods  apart.  When  it  is  comparatively  dry,  and 
there  are  not  many  springs,  the  ditches  may  be  from 
eight  to  ten  rods  apart. 

Wherever  we  find  a spring,  we  usually  make  a ditch 
leading  from  it  into  the  main  ditch.  It  is  a mistake  to 
undertake  to  fill  in  a spring.  It  is  sure  to  burst  forth, 
and  cause  more  trouble  than  if  it  had  been  provided  for 
in  the  first  place. 

There  should  be  a marginal  ditch,  running  completely 
around  the  bog,  about  three  feet  wide  at  the  top,  eight- 
een inches  deep,  and  eighteen  inches  wide  at  the  bottom. 
All  the  ditches  must  be  dug  with  slanting  banks,  to  pre- 
vent the  sides  from  caving. 

From  the  marginal  ditch,  the  other  ditches  are  all 
made  to  pitch  toward  the  main  or  central  ditch.  It  is 
usually  the  case,  in  working  a bog,  that  more  or  less 
springs  are  struck,  and  the  only  way  to  get  rid  of  the 
water  is  by  running  it  off  through  the  ditches.  All  the 
side  or  intersecting  ditches  should  be  of  the  dimensions 
just  given  for  the  marginal  ditch,  which  I consider  a 
good  proportion  for  a ditch,  and  all  that  is  ordinarily 
required. 

It  will  not  be  found  necessary  to  clear  the  ditches  often. 


14 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


Sometimes,  if  the  bog  is  of  good,  firm  material,  they  will 
not  need  it  for  ten  years.  But,  if  the  bog  is  soft  and 
porous,  the  ditches  must  be  cleared  yearly,  for  several 
years,  until  the  bog  becomes  dry  and  firm.  But  when 
we  find  a firm  bog,  in  the  first  place,  there  will  be  in  it 
but  few,  if  any,  springs. 

A bog  well-ditched  and  well-drained,  is  less  expensive 
to  take  care  of  than  one  which  is  very  wet ; for  less  weeds 
and  wild  stuff  will  spring  up  in  it. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

GRADING  AND  LEVELLING. 

A bog  should  be  graded  and  made  as  smooth  and  level 
as  possible — in  fact,  as  near  a “ water  level  ” as  it  can  be 
made — because  if  it  is  of  a good,  even  grade,  it  will  take 
less  water  to  flood  it,  and  if  the  supply  of  water  is  lim- 
ited, it  is  of  course  essential  that  this  particular  should 
be  closely  attended  to.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the  sup- 
ply of  water  is  abundant,  so  much  care  need  not  be  exer- 
cised in  this  particular.  If,  for  instance,  a pond  adjoins, 
or  a river  runs  through  the  bog,  it  will  be  readily  seen 
that  it  will  answer  all  purposes  to  make  the  bog  of  its 
natural  grade. 

If  there  is  a great  deal  of  brake  or  other  kinds  of  fern, 
or  other  wild  stuff,  which  is  hard  to  kill,  and  the  bog  is 
high  enough  to  stand  it,  having  a fair  of  from  three  to 
six  feet,  then  it  will  be  well  to  turf  the  whole  of  it,  and 
have  the  top  removed  to  the  most  convenient  place,  and 
burn  it  on  the  spot,  or  deposit  it  upon  the  nearest  adjoin- 
ing ground.  This  course  will  save  a great  deal  of  labor 
and  extra  expense  m weeding.  The  advantage  of  this 
course  being  apparent,  the  additional  first  cost  will  never 


GRADING  AND  LEVELLING. 


15 


be  regretted.  In  case  a fire  were  to  break  out  in  a bog 
from  the  burning  of  the  bushes,  or  the  turf,  then  it 
would  be  ruined  were  there  not  a supply  of  water  that 
can  be  readily  forced  upon  it. 

The  grading  should  be  as  nicely  done  as  if  laying 
down  a lawn  or  pleasure  ground  to  grass,  the  object 
being  to  get  an  even  coat  of  sand  over  the  whole  of  the 
surface  of  the  peat  or  muck.  If  numerous  holes  and 
hollows  are  left  here  and  there  over  the  surface,  then 
there  would  be  places,  in  levelling  up  with  sand,  where 
the  coating  would  be  six  or  seven  inches  thick,  instead 
of  three  or  four  inches,  the  desired  thickness.  The  con- 
sequence would  be  that  the  vines  would  make  a very  un- 


even growth  ; those  which  were  set  where  the  sand  was 
the  deepest,  would  be  a year  or  two  longer  in  making  a 
growth  through  such  a coating,  than  would  those  planted 
where  they  could  readily  strike  their  roots  down  into  the 
rich  muck  beneath. 

A hoe,  shaped  like  a common  grubbing  hoe,  is  the  im- 
plement used  for  grading.  Every  farmer  knows  what 
that  is  ; but  the  grading  hoe  should  be  made  of  the  best 
steel,  and  ground  to  an  edge  like  an  axe — the  object 
being  to  cut  all  the  fine  roots  to  pieces,  and  get  out  such 
of  them  as  escaped  when  the  trees,  stumps,  shoots,  and 
larger  wood  were  removed.  These  axes,  or  hoes,  are  made 
by  hand  at  Cape  Cod,  and  can  be  procured  of  hardware 
dealers  at  West  Sandwich  and  Harwich. 


16 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


CHAPTER  V. 

SANDING  AND  PLANTING. 

The  sand  should  be  of  a gravelly  nature,  free  from 
clay  or  loam,  and  considerably  coarser  than  that  com- 
monly used  in  making  mortar  for  plastering.  Sand  of 
this  description  can  not  always  be  obtained  ; but,  whether 
finer  or  coarser,  nothing  which  has  an  admixture  of  loam 
or  clay,  should  ever  be  used  upon  a bog,  for  the  follow- 
ing reasons  : It  will  bake  down  hard,  and  the  vines  will 
not  grow  so  vigorously  as  they  will  in  loose,  porous  sand. 
Again,  the  water  will  not  leach  through  very  readily ; 
and  weeds  and  wild  grasses  will  grow  much  quicker  than 
where  the  surface  allows  the  water  to  pass  through  it 
quickly. 

After  the  bog  has  been  levelled,  as  described  in  the 
last  chapter,  an  even  coat  of  sand,  four  inches  in  depth, 


should  be  spread  over  its  whole  surface.  It  is  a great 
advantage  to  have  the  sand  in  close  proximity  to  the  bog, 
as  it  saves  the  expense  of  carting.  In  spreading  the 
sand  it  is  usual  to  lay  down  some  two-inch  plank,  eight 
inches  wide,  for  a walk,  and  the  sand  is  brought  on  in 
wheel-barrows.  The  planks  are  laid  from  the  sand  pit  or 
outer  edge  of  the  bog  to  the  centre  ditch,  and  removed 
as  fast  as  the  bog  is  sanded. 

The  sand  is  spread  by  means  of  a “ Spreader/’  made  of 


MARKING. 


1? 


a piece  of  one-inch  white  oak  board,  about  fifteen  inches 
long  by  three  inches  wide,  and  fastened  to  a handle. 

MARKING. 

When  the  operation  of  spreading  the  sand  is  completed, 
we  next  make  use  of  an  implement  called  the  “Marker.” 
This  (fig.  5)  is  made  of  a piece  of  two  by  four  inch  joist,  * 
about  nine  feet  long,  having  teeth  set  eighteen  inches 
apart,  and  a handle  the  length  of  a rake-handle.  The 
teeth  are  eight  inches  long,  made  of  white  oak,  driven 
through  holes  bored  in  the  joist  for  the  purpose.  The 
implement  is  made  similar  to  the  common  rake,  with 


teeth  farther  apart,  and  the  whole  made  stronger  to  stand 
harder  usage,  by  having  stays  running  from  the  handle 
to  the  head,  which  holds  the  teeth. 

To  mark  off  the  bog,  a line  is  stretched,  say  six  inches 
from  the  margin  of  any  one  of  the  intersecting  ditches, 
as  a starting  point,  and  run  the  marker  lengthwise  of 
that  line,  and  continue  to  mark  to  within  six  inches,  or 
the  same  distance  of  the  next  intersecting  ditch,  and  so 
continue  back  and  forth  between  the  shore  and  central 
ditch  until  that  particular  section  has  been  gone  over; 
we  then  proceed  to  the  next  section  and.  mark  it  in  the 
same  manner,  and  so  on  in  rotation,  until  all  have  been 
marked  in  the  same  way.  We  then  draw  the  marker 
transversely  across  the  sections,  that  is  to  say,  at  right 


18 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


angles  with  the  first  marking.  The  sections,  when  the 
marking  is  completed,  have  much  the  appearance  of  a 
checker-board.  All  this  is  done  preparatory  to  planting 
the  vines. 


THE  CUTTINGS. 

The  bog  is  to  be  planted  with  cuttings,  usually  called 
•‘uprights.”  They  are  the  shoots  of  the  running,  or 
main  stems  of  established  vines,  from  two  to  four  inches 
long,  which  bear  the  fruit.  Sometimes  long  cuttings, 
some  two  feet  in  length,  are  used,  being  doubled  at  the 
time  of  planting. 

MAKING  THE  CUTTINGS. 

The  uprights  are  mowed  off  of  an  established  bog,  using 
a butchering  knife.  They  are  cut  off  smooth  from  the 
runners  and  rolled  back  in  windrows,  as  one  would  roll 
back  a fleece  in  shearing  a sheep.  The  dead  wood  is  re- 
jected, and  only  the  fresh  clean  cuttings  are  used  for 
planting  or  are  barrelled  for  transportation.  The  aver- 
age quantity  of  uprights  required  for  planting  an  acre  is 
four  barrels,  but  with  older  cuttings  it  would  take  more, 
as  with  age  the  vines  become  larger  and  heavier.  When 
a vine  is  eight  or  ten  years  old,  its  stem  is  about  the  size 
of  a lead  pencil,  but  when  younger  it  is  about  the  size  of 
the  lead  or  point  of  the  pencil. 

KEEPING  THE  CUTTINGS. 

After  making  the  cuttings, they  should  not  be  exposed  to 
the  sun  for  any  length  of  time  before  planting,  but  should 
be  kept  in  the  shade  and  under  water,  in  a pond  or  run- 
ning stream,  where  there  will  be  fresh  water  flowing  over 
them  all  the  time.  They  should  not  be  put  into  stagnant 
water,  for  in  that  case  they  would  “cook,”  or  spoil.  In 
the  manner  above  descr.bed,  the  vines  could  be  kept  all 


-SETTING  STICK. — SETTING  THE  CUTTINGS.  19 

summer,  or  the  year  round,  until  the  following  spring. 
I have  known  them  to  be  kept  from  one  season  to  another 
in  a cellar,  and  when  planted  the  bulk  of  them  lived. 

THE  SETTING  STICK. 

Planting  is  done  with  the  aid  of  an  implement  called 
the  “setting  stick.”  This  is  made  of  white  oak,  about 
eight  inches  long,  with  a rounded  and  bulbous-shaped 
handle,  and  a blade  about  a fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  as 


Fig.  6.— SETTING  STICK. 


shown  in  fig.  6.  If  it  were  made  of  softer  wood,  two 
hours  work  would  blunt  the  edge  and  make  it  compara- 
tively useless. 

SETTING  THE  CUTTINGS. 

The  little  bunch  of  cuttings,  or  “uprights,”  is  placed 
upon  the  sand,  the  blade  of  the  “setting  stick”  pressed 
upon  them,  and  with  a single  thrust  of  the  hand  the  hole 
is  made,  and  the  “uprights”  set  or  planted  at  a suitable 
depth  and  in  proper  position  ; that  is,  through  the  cover- 
ing of  sand,  and  in  contact  with  the  muck  beneath.  In 
this  case,  the  vines  being  alive  when  planted,  not  one  in 
five  hundred  will  be  lost.  The  cuttings,  when  set,  should 
not  project  above  the  surface  more  than  from  one  to  two 
inches.  When  the  long  runner,  doubled,  is  used  instead 
of  the  little  bunch  of  vines,  if  two  feet  long  the  runner  is 
doubled  twice,  and  then  is  planted  with  the  setting  stick 
precisely  as  uprights,  in  the  manner  already  described. 
The  diagram  (fig.  ?)  of  a portion  of  a bog  illustrates  the 


20 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


manner  in  which  the  cuttings  are  set,  at  the  corners  of  the 
squares  formed  in  marking.  About  four  uprights  in  a 
bunch  are  set  in  each  corner.  If  more  are  planted  they 
are  apt  to  heat,  and  not  take  root  at  all. 


TREATMENT  AFTER  PLANTING. 


After  the  vines  are  planted,  the  bog  should  be  kept 
moderately  wet  for  two  or  three  weeks  by  shutting  down 
the  dam,  and  keeping  the  water  back  in  the  ditches  to 
within  eight  inches  of  the  surface  of  the  bog,  until  the 


rSjei 


jvjg 





1 

! 


' J* -v. 

Fig.  7.— DIAGRAM  OF  PLANTING. 


i 

-4- 


vines  show  some  signs  of  growing.  After  they  have 
started,  the  dam  should  be  raised  and  the  water  let  out 
of  the  ditches,  so  as  to  warm  the  ground,  and  let  the  vines 
receive  the  full  benefit  of  the  rays  of  the  sun,  when  they 
will  grow  with  great  vigor. 

If  during  the  summer  there  should  be  a dry  time,  then 
the  water  should  be  occasionally  raised  m the  ditches. 
But,  if  we  have  a very  wet  season,  the  water  should  be 
kept  low,  and  the  bog  as  dry  as  possible. 


DIKING  AND  FLOWING. 


21 


CHAPTER  VI. 

DIKING  AND  FLOWING. 

The  construction  of  a dike  is  a matter  of  judgment  to 
a great  extent.  The  hight  of  the  dam  wTill  depend  on 
the  pitch  of  the  bog  ; for  the  dam  must  be  of  sufficient 
hight  to  raise  the  water  so  as  to  flow  the  whole  surface. 

Preparatory  to  making  a dam,  we  dig  a trench  directly 
through  the  bog  at  the  spot  where  the  dam  is  to  be 
placed — about  four  feet  in  width,  and  down  to  the  hard- 
pan,  if  the  muck  is  not  too  deep.  A location  where  a 
solid  foundation  for  the  dam  can  be  reached  is  desirable. 
The  trench  should  be  filled  in  with  sand  or  clay  ; level 
with  the  surface  of  the  surrounding  bog,  and  the  sur- 
face of  the  bog  should  be  turfed  to  a distance  of  four  or 
five  feet  on  each  side  of  the  trench,  and  all  stumps  and 
roots  taken  out,  so  as  to  make  a good  foundation  for 
the  dam  to  rest  upon. 

The  foundation  of  the  dam  should  be  not  less  than 
twelve  feet  wide  from  outside  to  outside,  in  case  the 
surface  to  be  flowed  is  of  any  great  extent — say  fifty 
acres.  The  sods  or  turf,  which  have  been  removed  from 
the  bog  in  the  manner  already  described,  should  be  used 
to  make  the  outside  of  the  dam.  They  should  be  laid 
flat,  one  upon  the  other,  and  after  every  layer  add 
sand  of  sufficient  depth  to  fill  up  all  crevices,  and  to 
cover  over  each  layer  of  sods  thoroughly  and  evenly. 
The  joints  should  be  broken  in  laying  the  sods,  and  the 
whole  work  should  be  very  carefully  done.  Two  walls  of 
turf  are  thus  built,  and  the  space  between  them  should 
be  filled  in  with  sand  or  clay,  and  the  dam  should  be 
raised  to  a hight  sufficient  to  flow  the  bog.  It  would  be 
well  in  making  the  outside  of  the  dam,  to  lay  the  sods  so 
that  they  will  take  root  in  the  spring,  and  grow  and  hold 
the  whole  structure  firmly  together.  It  is  better  to  make 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


the  dam  in  the  spring  than  in  the  fall,  for  this  reason. 
The  walls,  or  sides  of  the  dam  should  gradually  taper 
from  the  foundation  to  the  top,  so  that,  starting  with  a 
width  of  twelve  feet  at  the  bottom,  it  will  be  nine  feet 
wide  at  the  top,  and  will  be  suitable  for  a driveway  in 


Fig.  8.— SECTION  OF  DAM. 


crossing  the  bog.  Figure  8,  showing  a section  of  the 
dam,  will  give  an  idea  of  this  method  of  structure. 

THE  FLUME. 

The  flume  should  be  constructed  and  set  as  near  the 
center  of  the  dam  as  convenient.  In  case  the  bog  is  sup- 
plied with  water  from  a flowing  stream  or  river,  the  flume 
will  of  course  be  placed  in  the  bed  of  that  stream  or  river. 
Having  set  the  flume,  the  dam  is  built  up  to  it.  The 
flume  is  constructed  as  follows  : The  frame  is  made  of 
cedar  or  cypress  timber,  about  eight  inches  square,  and 
the  stuff  for  planking  is  of  two-inch  cypress  or  pme.  For 
a dam  of  twelve  feet  foundation,  the  flume  would  require 
a frame  of  corresponding  length  and  width.  The  frame 
is  made  for  the  bottom  and  sides  as  shown  in  figure  9, 
and  the  planking  is  spiked  to  this  frame  on  the  inside  ; 
previous  to  which,  however,  piles  of  matched  spruce 
boards  are  driven  the  whole  width  of  the  flume  across  the 
center.  These  piles  are  of  one-inch  boards,  and  are 


THE  FLUME. 


23 


driven  down  from  eighteen  inches  to  three  or  four  feet 
deep,  or  until  they  came  to  a solid  bottom.  They  are 
then  nailed  to  the  frame,  and  sawed  off  level  with  it,  so 
that  the  planking  which  forms  the  bottom  of  the  flume 
can  be  nailed  smoothly  over  them.  This  is  done  to  pre- 
vent any  animal  from  burrowing  under  the  flume,  and 
letting  the  water  off  when  the  bog  is  flowed.  These  piles 
are  also  driven  laterally  for  a distance  of  ten  or  twelve 
feet  each  side  of  the  center,  and  also  at  the  upper  and 
lower  ends  of  the  flume,  and  nailed  to  the  frame  work  in 
the  same  way,  and  are  of  use  in  holding  the  flume  down 


in  its  place.  If  this  work  is  not  thoroughly  well  done,  if 
the  flume  is  not  properly  constructed,  and  the  piling 
carefully  attended  to,  musk  rats  or  eels  will  be  sure  to  go 
through,  the  dam  will  be  undermined  and  the  water  pos- 
sibly let  off  in  the  winter,  when  the  bog  should  be  cov- 
ered ; for,  unless  leaks  are  prevented,  the  vines  may  be 
exposed  to  the  weather  in  the  winter,  which  would 
damage  them  seriously,  and  entail  the  loss  of  a crop  the 
following  year. 

It  is  best  to  engage  a man  who  is  well  acquainted  with 
work  of  this  kind.  Any  one  who  has  ever  set  a flume  at 
a mill  would  understand  it.  But  I have  known  instances 
where,  owing  to  haste  and  carelessness  in  building  the 
flume,  both  dam  and  flume  have  been  carried  away  in  the 


24 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


winter,  and  great  damage  was  occasioned  thereby.  When 
such  a catastrophe  occurs,  the  vines  are  washed  out,  and 
all  the  material  used  in  building  the  dam  is  carried  down 
with  the  water  and  scattered  broadcast  over  the  bog.  We 
often  make  two  or  three  grades  to  a bog,  where  the  pitch 
is  six  feet  or  more,  and  the  resulting  injury  would  be 
great  and  the  loss  serious  were  such  a break  to  occur. 

In  flowing  a bog,  all  that  is  required  is  a sufficient 
depth  of  water  to  cover  the  vines.  The  proper  time  to 
commence  flowing  is  about  the  first  of  November,  before 
any  ice  forms  ; although,  if  by  any  chance  the  vines  have 
become  frozen  in  the  ice,  that  of  itself  will  not  destroy 
them.  It  is  subsequent  flowing  which  lifts  the  ice,  which 
as  it  rises,  tears  out  the  vines.  This  causes  the  harm, 
and  the  way  to  avoid  it  is  by  adjusting  the  gate  to  the 
flume  so  as  to  let  off  all  surplus  water. 

The  gate  of  a flume  is  constructed  as  follows  : Two 
parallel  strips  of  wood,  one  inch  and  a half  thick  are 
nailed  perpendiculary  near  the  center  of  each  side  of  the 
flume  an  inch  or  more  apart,  and  opposite  each  other,  as 
seen  in  figure  10.  The  gate,  constructed  of  matched 
inch  boards,  slides  up  and  down  between  these  strips  or 
grooves  of  wood,  as  is  shown  in  at  A and  B , figure  10, 
by  means  of  a chain  and  roller.  This  is  one  way  of  con- 
structing the  gate  and  it  is  the  common  one  on  the  Cape. 

If  water  for  flowing  is  obtained  from  a stream  which 
flows  through  the  bog,  but  one  dam  with  its  flume  and 
gate  is  often  all  that  is  required.  If  a pond  or  reservoir, 
on  higher  ground  supplies  the  water  for  flowing,  then, 
besides  this  dam,  there  must  be  another  as  the  source  of 
supply,  by  opening  the  gate  in  which  the  water  for  flow- 
ing will  be  let  on. 

For  the  first  two  seasons  the  water  should  be  kept  on 
the  bog  until  the  last  of  April ; but  when  the  bog  is  twro 
years  old,  and  in  condition  to  bear,  water  should  be  kept 
on  later,  say  until  the  first  of  June.  If  any  one  wishes 


THE  FLUME. 


25 


to  experiment  with  later  flowing  he  can  do  so.  I have 
kept  the  water  on  until  the  fifteenth  day  of  June,  and 
haye  had  a good,  well-ripened  crop. 

The  object  in  keeping  the  water  on  until  June,  after 
the  bog  is  vined  and  ready  to  bear,  is  to  prevent  damage 
from  late  frosts,  and  get  rid  of  the  Fruit-worm  and  the 
Fire-worm ; next  to  the  frost,  these  two  pests  are  the 
worst  foes  of  the  cranberry.  The  particular  bog  above 
alluded  to,  which  was  flowed  until  the  fifteenth  day  of 


Fig.  10.— DAM,  SHOWING  GATE  SHUT  AND  GATE  OPEN. 


June,  in  the  year  1884,  is  known  as  the  “ Monomoscoy 
Bog/’  situated  in  the  town  of  Marshpee.  It  contains  five 
acres,  and  cost  $1,870.00.  The  expense  of  the  bog  that 
year,  including  the  weeding  and  care  of  it,  the  building 
of  a bog-house,  the  gathering  of  the  crop,  besides  tools 
bought  for  the  use  of  the  bog,  and  taxes,  was  $1,378.40  ; 
and  a dividend  was  paid  of  $1,894.76,  or  101  percent. 
In  the  spring  of  1885,  400  barrels  of  vines  were  sold  from 
the  bog,  giving  a net  profit  of  $958.00,  or  more  than  half 
the  first  cost,  and  there  were  besides  200*  barrels  of  cran- 
berries on  the  bog  at  a low  estimate. 


There  were  233  barrels  by  actual  count. 


26 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

VARIETIES  OF  THE  CRANBERRY. 

The  most  desirable  variety  of  cranberry  to  plant  is  the 
“ Early  Black.”  This  is  a very  prolific  and  sure  bearer, 
and  the  vines  are  not  such  rank  growers  as  any  of  the 
other  varieties.  One  advantage  possessed  by  the  “ Early 
Black”  over  all  others  is,  that  a bog  infested  with  worms, 
if  found  necessary,  can  be  kept  flowed  until  the  fifteenth 
of  June,  and  the  berries  will  still  have  time  to  ripen  by 
ths  fifteenth  of  September.  As  intimated,  the  vine  is  of 
low  growth,  and  the  berries  can  be  easier  gathered.  The 
“ Early  Black”  is  shown  in  the  frontispiece,  which  was 
engraved  from  a photograph  of  the  exact  size,  taken  from 
some  unusually  fine  specimens  grown  by  the  author. 

Another  very  good  variety  is  the  “Second  Early,” 
which  ripens  about  ten  days  after  the  “Early  Black.” 

There  are  other  varieties  which  bear  still  larger  berries, 
but  they  do  not  keep  well.  Among  these  may  be  men- 
tioned the  “ Macfarlane,”  a.  large  berry,  but  it  ripens  too 
late,  and  must  be  picked  green.  This  variety  last  season 
did  not  bring  so  much  by  one  dollar  per  barrel  as  the 
“Early  Black,”  which,  with  the  “Second  Early,”  are 
the  only  varieties  that  I consider  it  desirable  to  plant.  I 
say  this  with  great  positiveness,  as  the  result  of  long  ex- 
perience. A white  frost  will  not  seriously  injure  the 
“Early  Black”  cranberry,  because  the  fruit  is  so  nearly 
ripe  before  the  frost  appears  that  it  will  go  through  com- 
paratively unharmed,  where  a later  variety,  being  green, 
would  be  nearly  destroyed  if  similarly  exposed.  The  loss 
to  the  “ Early  Black,”  when  nearly  ripened  and  high  col- 
ored, would  be  about  one  bushel  in  five  hundred,  whereas 
a green  berry,  under  like  conditions,  would  be  ruined  to 
the  extent  of  three-quarters  of  the  crop.  Other  varieties 
grown  on  the  Cape,  which  I have  not  before  mentioned, 


INJURIOUS  INSECTS  AND  WEEDS. 


27 


are  “The  Howe,”  and  “The  Guild.”  The  first  may  be 
described  as  “ poor,”  the  last  as  “ fair.”  Neither  is  equal 
to  the  “Early  Black,”  nor,  in  my  opinion,  is  any  better 
variety  than  this  grown. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

INJURIOUS  INSECTS  AND  WEEDS. 

Weeds  and  bushes  of  all  kinds  should  be  kept  out  of 
the  bog,  and  nothing  but  the  cranberry  vines  allowed  to 
grow  there.  Thorough  and  careful  weeding  is  necessary 
in  the  Spring,  after  the  water  is  let  off  ; and  in  case  any 
of  the  ditches  need  to  be  repaired,  or  cleaned  out,  it 
should  be  done  at  this  time.  Furthermore,  in  the  Fall, 
after  the  crop  is  gathered,  the  bog  should  be  weeded 
again,  and  then  flooded,  as  heretofore  stated,  to  prevent 
damage  from  the  frost  and  sudden  changes  of  tempera- 
ture in  winter. 


THE  FIRE-WORM. 

The  moth  or  miller  which  produces  the  Fire-worm,  ’ap- 
pears as  early  as  the  twentieth  of  June,  and  when  flying 
looks  about  the  size  of  a house  fly.  In  about  fifteen  days 
after  the  miller  deposits  its  eggs,  generally  on  the  under 
side  of  the  leaves,  the  Fire- worm  hatches  out.  It  is  abso- 
lutely necessary,  if  the  bog  is  visited  by  this  moth,  to  let 
water  on  the  bog  within  twenty-four  hours  of  its  appear- 
ance, or  the  crop  for  the  season  will  be  destroyed.  If  the 
eggs  are  once  deposited,  water  has  no  effect  on  them  ; but 
they  will  hatch  out  within  fifteen  days  after  the  water  is 
let  off.  I have  seen  the  moths  as  late  as  the  twentieth  of 
June,  and  have  known  the  worm  to  appear  by  July  fourth. 
I have  never  seen  a bog  that  was  troubled  with  the  Fire- 


28 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


worm  after  being  flowed  continuously  from  the  first  of 
November  to  the  first  of  June.  This  Fire- worm  devours 
the  parenchyma,  or  the, green  cellular  tissue  of  the  leaves, 
but  does  not  attack  the  veins  or  ribs  of  their  frame-work. 
The  worm  operates  very  much  as  does  the  Canker-worm 
upon  the  apple  tree.  The  Fire- worm  comes  on  when  the 
fruit  is  forming,  eating  the  vines,  and  destroying  the  buds 
and  blossoms,  thus  ruining  the  prospect  of  a crop  for  the 
season., 

THE  FRUIT-WORM. 

This  insect  eats  more  or  less  on  all  bogs,  but  at  the 
worst  has  never  been  known  to  eat  more  than  one-third 
of  the  crop.  This  worm  bores  into  the  heart  of  a fruit, 
eats  out  the  inside,  and  then  attacks  another  berry.  It 
injures  the  fruit  only  when  that  is  of  the  size  of  a mar- 
rowfat pea,  but  does  not  trouble  the  vines.  Whenever  a 
bog  has  been  flowed  late,  or  until  June  first,  or  fifteenth, 
it  is  very  rare  that  the  Fruit-worm  does  much  damage, 
and  the  Fire- worm  is  effectually  destroyed. 

There  are  various  speculations  as  to  what  moth  pro- 
duces the  Fruit-worm,  but  there  is  no  doubt  as  to  what 
produces  the  Fire-worm.  The  Fruit-worm  is  the  offspring 
of  one  of  several  moths  or  millers  which  are  seen  con- 
stantly flitting  over  the  bogs  from  the  middle  of  April 
until  the  first  of  June.  This  particular  species  appears 
when  flying  to  be  of  the  same  size,  and  is  nearly  as  dark 
colored  as  the  house-fly,  but  at  rest  looks  more  like 
a mosquito. 

GIRDLE  RS. 

There  are  besides  these,  several  kinds  of  Girdlers,  that 
work  underground  and  destroy  the  bark  of  the  vines. 
They  go  quite  around  the  stem  of  the  plant,  so  completely 
eating  off  the  bark  that  the  sap  cannot  circulate,  and  the 
plant  dies.  If  in  such  cases,  the  bog  is  young,  and 


GATHERING  AND  SHIPPING  THE  CROP. 


29 


without  fruit  on  it,  letting  on  the  water  would  destroy 
the  girdlers,  and  no  damage  wrould  be  done  to  the  vines. 
One  species  of  the  girdlers  is  an  inch  long,  and  as  big 
around  as  the  common  gray  worm,  which  eats  cucumbers, 
squashes,  etc.,  in  our  gardens.  They  are  rarely  found 
where  the  bog  is  wet ; but  on  high  ground  they  some- 
times do  a great  deal  of  damage.  We  see  more  of  this 
insect  while  the  plants  are  young  and  tender,  than  when 
they  become  old  and  woody. 

Whenever  there  is  fruit  on  the  bog,  it  is  dangerous  to 
flow  it  in  hot  weather.  Within  my  knowledge,  several 
parties  have  lost  their  entire  crop  inconsequence  of  flow- 
ing at  this  time.  The  berries  were  “ scalded,”  that  is  to 
say,  were  softened  and  deprived  of  color,  just  as  if  they 
had  been  immersed  in  boiling  hot  water.  In  one  in- 
stance within  my  knowledge,  about  three  thousand  bar- 
rels of  fruit  were  lost  by  flowing  in  the  summer  time,  to 
prevent  the  ravages  of  the  Fruit-worm  at  a time  when  the 
berries  were  were  nearly  full-grown.  This  was  on  the 
Quoshnet  Bog  in  Mashpee. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

GATHERING  AND  SHIPPING  THE  CROP. 

W^hen  the  season  for  cranberry  picking  arrives,  it  is  no 
unusual  sight  to  see  nearly  the  entire  population  of  the 
village,  from  old  to  young,  starting  out  in  the  morning 
on  their  way  to  the  bogs.  These  people  are  packed  into 
their  farm  wagons,  which,  holding  anywhere  from  six  to 
a dozen,  and  are  drawn  soberly  along  by  the  family  horse, 
who  apparently  does  not  appreciate  the  situation  as  well 
as  the  good-humored  crowd  he  is  carrying.  It  is  a sight 
which  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated,  as  each  individual 


30 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


is  dressed  in  a costume  of  startling  originality  and  of  the 
most  unique  description,  the  object  being,  not  to  see  who 
can  dress  and  look  the  best,  but  who  can  be  the  best  pro- 
tected in,  and  provided  for  the  labor  before  them. 

Upon  arriving  at  the  bog,  each  one  has  his  or  her 
name  entered  on  an  account-book  bv  the  overseer,  and  is 
given  a pail,  and  a number  by  which  the  individual  is  to 
be  known  so  long  as  the  bearer  remains,  so  that  each 
one,  upon  coming  up  with  a pail  of  berries  to  be  emptied, 
calls  out  the  number  to  the  overseer,  who  places  the 
proper  credit  against  that  number  on  his  book. 

The  pickers  commence  work  as  soon  as  the  dew  is  off 
of  the  bog,  and  work  until  noon,  when  they  partake  of 
a luncheon,  usually  brought  with  them  ; and  after  a short 
rest  resume  work,  and  keep  at  it  until  night,  when  they 
return  home  as  they  came.  They  keep  this  up,  going 
from  bog  to  bog  in  the  neighborhood,  and  picking  while 
the  season  lasts.  In  some  instances,  pickers  comingfrom 
a distance,  will  camp  out  in  their  tents,  or  erect  rude 
dwellings,  and  live  in  them  until  the  season  is  over. 

To  get  the  bog  ready  for  the  pickers,  we  first  gather 
the  fruit  for  about  eighteen  inches  around  the  margin  of 
the  section  where  the  pickers  are  to  strike  in,  so  that  the 
berries  will  not  be  crushed  when  the  men  who  measure 
and  stretch  the  lines  for  the  pickers  go  around.  It  is  best 
to  keep  strings  ahead  over  enough  ground  to  accommodate 
a gang  of  one  hundred  pickers,  so  that  no  confusion  or 
delay  may  occur  in  setting  them  to  work.  The  strings 
are  stretched  across  the  sections  in  parallel  lines,  some 
six  feet  apart,  and  made  fast  to  pegs  set  in  the  ground 
at  each  end.  Betwen  these  lines,  the  pickers  are  set  at 
work,  from  one  to  three  in  a row,  whichever  they  prefer  ; 
but  no  one  is  allowed  to  leave  his  place  and  go  elsewhere, 
until  his  section  is  thoroughly  and  completely  picked. 

Pickers  oftentimes  come  from  sixty  miles  away,  whole 
families  of  them,  to  the  number  of  from  one  hundred 


GATHERING  AND  SHIPPING  THE  CROP. 


31 


and  fifty  to  two  hundred  pickers,  and  take  the  picking  by 
contract.  The  berries  are  picked  into  six-quart  pails,  or 
measures,  which  are  required  to  be  heaped  up  to  allow 
for  the  poor  berries,  the  stems  and  leaves.  Each  picker, 
as  has  been  stated,  is  allotted  a number,  and  during  the 
picking  season,  is  designated,  not  by  name,  but  by  num- 
ber. The  pickers  are  usually  paid  ten  cents  per  meas- 
ure of  six  quarts  ; but  in  some  places  they  are  paid  by 
the  bushel ; in  such  cases  forty  cents  per  bushel  is  the 
usual  price.  Sometimes  pickers  are  paid  by  the  pound. 
This  is  not  usual,  however.  Each  gang  of  fifty 
pickers,  has  an  overseer,  whose  duty  it  is  to  see  that  the 
hands  do  their  work  well,  pick  clean,  and  do  not  tear 
the  vines. 

I have  spoken  of  the  account-book  kept  by  the  over- 
seer ; this  book  is  made  specially  for  cranberry  growers, 
by  stationers  in  Boston,  Mass.  It  is  a great  convenience, 
and  was  first  made  at  my  suggestion.  The  book  has  an 
index  of  numbers  upon  its  pages,  of  from  one  to  two 
hnndred,  instead  of  being  lettered  from  separately  in  an 
index,  A to  Z,  as  is  usual.  The  book  is  about  sixteen 
inches  long,  five  inches  wide,  and  is  ruled  in  spaces 
of  about  fifty  lines  to  the  page.  Every  picker’s  name 
is  written  at  the  top  of  one  of  these  pages,  so  that 
when  a picker  brings  in  a pail  to  be  emptied,  and  calls 
out  the  number,  the  overseer,  or  account  keeper,  who  is 
located  at  some  convenient  station  on  the  bog,  at  a glance 
finds  the  number  in  the  index,  and  turns  to  the  page  bear- 
ing that  number,  and  gives  the  credit  to  the  proper 
party,  thus  avoiding  much  delay,  and  lessening  the  lia- 
bility to  mistakes.  A measure  can  be  filled  by  a smart 
picker  in  fifteen  minutes.  A gang  of  eighty  pickers  (no 
unusual  number),  can  in  exceptionally  good  picking,  pick 
five  barrels,  Massachusetts  standard  measure,  in  fifteen 
minutes,  or  twenty  barrels  an  hour,  at  which  rate  there 
must  be  an  average  of  a credit  to  be  given  the  pickers  by 


32 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


the  book-keeper  every  ten  seconds.  From  this  it  will  he 
seen  that  it  takes  a person  of  good  ability,  one  who  is 
quick  and  expert,  to  attend  to  the  duties  of  accountant 
when  the  cranberry  picking  is  lively. 

Below  is  a fac  simile  of  a portion  of  a page  taken 
from  one  of  my  account-books,  in  the  back  of  which  it 
is  my  custom  to  have  a number  of  blank  leaves  for  other 
accounts. 


Date.  Name  of  PicJcer.  Number  of  Measures. 


Sept. 

Peter  Quillen. 

10 

THJ  THI  THJ  m tNJ  IHJ IHIM1LJ 

ii 

rn.1 

Fig.  11. — FAC  SIMILE  OF  A PORTION  OF  A PAGE  OF  ACCOUNT  BOOK. 


Each  perpendicular  mark  represents  a measure  of  six 
quarts.  Four  marks  are  thus  set  down  ; and,  as  every 
fifth  measure  is  brought  in,  a diagonal  line  is  drawn 
across  the  first  four.  The  aggregate  number  of  measures 
for  each  day’s  work  is  set  down  in  the  column  ruled  for 
the  purpose  at  the  right  hand  of  the  page.  The  date  is 
kept  in  a similar  column  at  the  left  hand,  and  the  name 
of  the  picker  is  placed  at  the  head  of  the  page.  When 
the  week’s  work  is  done,  the  column  of  measures  is  reck- 
oned up,  multiplied  by  six,  as  each  measure  holds  six 
quarts,  and  that  again  by  the  price  paid,  thus  making  a 
very  simple  and  concise  way  of  keeping  accounts  with 
the  pickers. 

The  berries,  as  fast  as  brought  in  by  the  pickers,  are 
thrown  into  crates,  placed  beside  the  accountant  for  that 
purpose.  These  crates,  holding  about  one  bushel  each, 


GATHERING  AND  SHIPPING  THE  CROP. 


33 


as  fast  as  filled  are  carried  off  to  be  screened.  Three 
crates  at  a time  are  carried  on  a sort  of  hurdle  or  hand- 
barrow,  provided  with  handles  at  each  end,  and  so  con- 
structed that  the  crates  will  fit  nicely  within  it.  Two 
men,  one  at  each  end,  then  take  the  load  from  the  ground 
and  hurry  it  away  to  the  Bog- House. 

THE  SCREEN  AND  SCREENING. 

The  screening  is  done  by  either  one  person,  working  a 
small  screen,  or  by  several  at  a large  one.  One  man  is  em- 
ployed to  attend  strictly  to  this  part  of  the  business,  under 


whose  direction  all  the  screening  and  barrelling  is  done. 
The  screen  is  in  the  shape  of  a flat-boat,  with  latticed  bot- 
tom, through  which  the  leaves,  twigs,  and  small  berries  fall 
before  reaching  the  end.  A side  view  of  the  screen  is 
given  in  fig.  12,  and  fig.  13  shows  the- bottom.  The 
screen  is  mounted  on  legs  long  enough  to  bring  it  to  a 
proper  hight  for  the  screeners  who  stand  around  it  at 
their  wrork.  The  slats  are  of  the  width  of  a common  lath, 
make  of  good  pine,  planed  smooth,  and  are  nailed  on  with 
quarter-inch  spaces  between  them.  The  screen  slopes 
gradually  from  the  widest  to  the  narrowest  end,  or  mouth. 


34 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


under  which  is  placed  a barrel  to  receive  the  perfect  ber- 
ries. Some  half  a dozen  people  are  allotted  to  each  of  the 
larger  screens,  with  one  at  each  end.  A crate  containing 
a bushel  is  dumped  in  at  the  large  end  of  the  screen,  and 
the  vines  and  poor  berries  thrown  out,  the  white  berries 
collected  and  put  into  separate  pans,  and  the  well  colored 
fruit  passes  out  at  the  smaller  end,  or  mouth,  into  the 
barrel  placed  there  to  receive  it.  When  the  barrels  are 
filled  they  are  set  at  one  side,  and  if  required  for  imme- 
diate shipment  the  head,  pressed  down  by  means  of  a 
screw,  is  inserted,  when  the  barrels  are  ready  for  the 


Fig.  14. — BOG-HOUSE. 


teamster  to  take  them  to  the  depot.  The  berries  are  us- 
ually set  in  the  Bog-House,  or  under  canvass,  for  twenty- 
four  hours  before  they  are  screened,  in  order  to  cool  them 
thoroughly  before  barrelling. 

THE  BOG-HOUSE. 

The  buildings  needed  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
pickers  and  the  fruit  are  : first,  the  Bog-House.  The 
size  of  the  house  will  of  course  depend  upon  the  extent 
of  the  bog ; one  of  ten  or  twelve  acres  would  require  a 


GATHERING  AND  SHIPPING  THE  CROP. 


35 


house  of  about  eighteen  by  thirty  feet.  Figure  14  gives 
a view  of  a Bog-House  suitable  for  a twelve  acre  bog, 
which  will  accommodate  thirty- two  hands,  or  a sufficient 
number  to  take  care  of  the  bog  in  the  picking  season. 
The  lower  floor,  a plan  of  which  is  given  in  figure  15,  is 


used  as  a cook  room  and  as  a room  in  which  to  dry  the 
berries.  The  upper  floor  is  arranged  with  sleeping  ac- 
commodations, and  is  divided  as  shown  in  the  plan, 
figure  1G.  Besides  the  Bog- House,  there  will  be  required 
sheds  suitable  for  storing  the  crates  in  which  the  fruit  is 
gathered,  and  also  for  sheltering  the  tools  and  barrels. 

The  berries  when  taken  from  the  bog,  should  be  set 


ipOcVX.  * 

Yjvri 

,Vs 

Pari  j | 

Fig.  16. — UPPER  FUOOR  OF  BOG-HOUSE. 


away  in  the  Bog-House  for  a day  or  two  before  screening 
and  barrelling,  in  order  that  they  may  be  thoroughly  dry, 
and  keep  better.  If  barrelled  when  wet,  they  will  sweat 


36 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


and  decay.  Berries  barrelled  in  cold  weather,  in  good 
condition,  invariably  keep  better  than  those  put  up  in 
warm  weather.  A great  many  growers  do  not  think  it 
profitable  to  keep  berries  for  anj  length  of  time,  as  the 
extra  price  which  may  be  obtained  does  not  make  good 
the  loss  from  shrinkage.  The  most  extensive  growers 
ship  their  crop,  so  far  as  possible,  as  soon  as  it  is  gath- 
ered. A cool,  dry  place,  and  one  where  no  frost  can 
affect  them  is  required  for  the  storing  of  berries  in  the 


Fig.  17. — 11  HEADER  FOR  BARRELING  CRANBERRIES. 

crates,  and  under  such  conditions  they  will  keep  for  sev- 
eral months  without  damage.  If  kept  until  cold  weather, 
they  must  be  transferred  to  a cellar  or  barn  where  the 
frost  can  not  penetrate.  In  preparing  the  barrels  for 
shipment,  after  being  well  filled,  the  head  is  put  in  and 
pressed  down  to  its  place  by  means  of  the  apparatus 
shown  in  figure  17.  The  hooks  at  the  lower  ends  of  the 
iron  side-pieces  catch  under  the  bottom  of  the  barrel, 
while  the  follower,  by  the  working  of  the  screw,  presses 
the  head  of  the  barrel  down  into  its  place,  where  it  is 
secured  by  the  driving  of  the  hoops. 


SOME  STATISTICS  OF  CRANBERRY  CULTURE.  37 


CHAPTER  X. 

SOME  STATISTICS  OF  CRANBERRY  CULTURE. 

Fifty  barrels  of  cranberries  per  acre  is  a fair  yield  ; but 
I have  picked  two  hundred  and  nineteen  barrels  on  two 
acres,  besides  the  wasted  and  poor  berries,  and  sixty  bar- 
rels of  fruit  was  left  upon  the  bog.  One  barrel,  one 
bushel  and  six  quarts,  or  one  barrel  and  one-third,  has 
been  picked  from  a single  square  rod. 

The  cost  of  picking  the  berries  is  from  one  dollar  and 
sixty  cents  to  two  dollars  per  barrel  of  thirty-two  quarts. 
The  cost  of  screening  is  not  less  than  twenty-five  cents 
per  barrel,  on  the  average.  The  cost  varies  from  fifteen 
cents  to  to  one  dollar  and  a half,  according  to  condition. 

If  perfectly  sound,  they  can  be  run  off  for  twenty-five 
cents,  on  the  average.  The  cost  of  the  barrels  is  forty- 
five  cents  each.  The  cost  of  getting  the  berries  from  the 
bogs  to  the  railroad  station  would  average  about  seven- 
teen cents  per  barrel.  The  freight  to  Boston  or  Provi- 
dence is  twenty  cents  ; to  New  York  forty  cents  per 
barrel.  The  broker’s  commission  for  selling  is  five  per 
cent.  The  average  cost  of  taking  care  of  a bog  is  ten 
dollars  per  acre,  taxes  included.  The  average  cost  of  a 
barrel  of  cranberries  is  three  dollars  and  seventy-five 
cents,  including  all  expenses ; so  that,  calling  the  orig-  ^ 
inal  cost  of  a bog  $425  per  acre,  and  allowing  that  it  pro- 
duces fifty  barrels  per  acre,  at  eleven  dollars  and  fifty 
cenis  per  barrel  (last  year’s  average  price,  delivered  at  the 
city),  the  profit  per  acre  would  be  ninety-one  per  cent, 
or  $387.50. 

Below  will  be  found  appended  the  statistics  of  a few 
bogs  that  have  come  under  my  notice,  and  I will  finish 
this  treatise  by  inviting  attention  to  the  same. 


38 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


THE  SANTUIT  BOG. 

The  Santuit  bog,  of  about  two  and  a half  acres,  on  the 
margin  of  the  Santuit  Pond,  cost  $1,100  up  to  the  time 
when  it  was  seven  years  old  ; and  when  sold  it  had  paid 
$2,500  above  all  expenses.  It  was  sold  for  $2,500  with- 
out the  crop,  and  I cleared  $5,000  by  the  operation.  This 
was  my  first  venture.  The  bog  was  made  in  1877  and 
sold  in  1884. 

THE  MINOMOSCOG  BOG. 

This  bog  of  five  acres,  cost  $1,870.  The  Bog-house 
cost  $250  ; screens,  etc.,  $300.  It  paid  last  year  a divi- 
dend of  101  per  cent.  We  received  for  vines  this  spring 
$758,  We  have  at  a low  estimate  200  barrels  of  berries 
on  the  bog,  worth  $1,500  at  least. 

THE  JEHU’S  POND  BOG. 

This  bog  contains  six  and  three-fourth  acres,  and  cost 
$375  per  acre.  In  its  third  summer’s  growth,  fifty-two 
barrels  were  picked,  which  sold  for  twelve  dollars  and 
fifty  cents  and  thirteen  dollars  per  barrel,  and  it  paid 
nearly  fifteen  per  cent  on  its  first  cost.  The  past  year, 
1885,  was  its  year  for  bearing,  and  we  gathered  563  bar- 
rels, with  the  probability  that  the  bog  will  pay  sixty  per 
cent,  this  year. 

THE  WINSLOW  BOG. 

This  is  near  Cotuit,  of  nine  acres,  costing  $3,600.  It 
paid  dividends,  amounting  to  $14,100  in  eight  years,  from 
1874  to  1882. 

THE  NEWTOWN  CO.’S  BOG. 

This  bog  is  sixteen  acres  in  extent,  and  cost  $6,800. 
It  was  made  in  1864-65  and  1866,  and  actually  paid  be- 
tween 1867  and  1882,  upwards  of  $45,600.  It  was  man- 
aged by  Capt.  Samuel  Nickerson,  of  Cotuit.  This  bog, 
although  now  nearly  twenty-one  years  old,  looks  almost 
as  well  as  it  ever  did. 


SOME  STATISTICS  OF  CRANBERRY  CULTURE.  39 


THE  QUOSHNET  BOG. 

This  paid  thirty-five  per  cent  last  year,  and  left  a bal- 
ance in  the  treasury  of  $1,800.  Some  of  the  buildings 
having  burned  down,  this  fund  was  reserved  for  the  pur- 
pose of  rebuilding  them. 

A little  four-acre  piece,  costing  $2,000,  in  1882  paid  a 
dividend  of  $2,300,  or  115  per  cent. 

Scores  of  cases  could  be  cited  of  good  paying  bogs.  One 
gentleman,  heavily  interested  in  bogs  in  Carver  and  else- 
where, had  a two-year  old  piece  in  Carver  that  paid 
twenty-five  per  cent,  and  another  that  paid  him  230  per 
cent  in  one  year.  This  gentleman  is  well  known,  of  un- 
doubted veracity,  and  his  name  can  be  given  to  anyone 
who  desires. 

I will  close  the  list  by  adducing  one  further  instance, 
of  which  I am  personally  cognizant,  namely  : 

THE  ABAGAIL’S  BROOK  BOG. 

This  is  a bog  of  eleven  and  three-fourths  acres.  The 
following  are  the  figures  for  1884. 


The  receipts  for  1884  were,  gross $5,485.24 

Expenses 1,973.87 

Dividend $3,511.37 


Paid  seventy-two  per  cent  of  its  cost.  Number  of 
barrels  picked,  509. 

Expenses  in  Detail. 

Cost  of  weeding,  digging  canal  and  repairs  to  dam. $322.50 


Town  of  Mashpee  tax 72.00 

Chas.  L.  Baxter,  200  boxes  @ 26ic  per  100 53.00 

Do.  509  bbls  @ 45 229.05 

Carting  509  bbls.  to  depot 84.83 

Cost  of  picking 831.94 

“ “ screening  118.63 

Workmen’s  time  during  picking  and  screening 183.72 

Nails 1.20 

Use  of  horse,  11  days  @ $2.00  per  day 22.00 

Writing  account 5.00 

Care  during  the  year 50.00 


Total $1973.87 


40 


CAPE  COD  CRANBERRIES. 


CRANBERRIES  UPON  HIGH  GROUND. 

I am  here  reminded  of  a newspaper  article,  whioh 
recently  came  under  my  observation  concerning  a western 
plantation  situated  in  Wisconsin.  The  correspondent, 
in  speaking  of  it,  states  that,  “ in  exact  antipodes  with 
common  cranberry  culture,  this  same  plantation  of  some 
twelve  acres,  is  situated  on  the  highest  land,  and  not  in 
a low  swampy  marsh.  Ditches  of  about  two  feet  in 
width  and  half  as  deep  are  dug  around  each  bed  or  plat, 
the  plats  being  nearly  level,  and  ridges  are  thrown  up  to 
separate  the  plats.  Water  is  conducted  into  these  ditches 
from  a little  mountain  stream,  dammed  up  for  the  pur- 
pose ; just  enough  fall  is  allowed  to  make  a slight  current 
in  the  ditches,  and  at  the  lower  corner  of  each  plat,  the 
water  is  conducted  through  the  ridges  in  a flume  to  the 
next  bed  or  plat,  and  so  on  down  over  the  whole  plan- 
tation. 

“The  soil  is  mostly  white  sand,  and  thin  grass  is  al- 
lowed to  grow  up  among  the  plants  without  in  any  way 
interfering  with  the  crop. 

“ The  proprietor  informed  us  that  he  expected  to  pick 
1,500  bushels  this  year  from  his  plantation,  which  would 
bring  from  three  to  four  dollars  per  bushel. 

“ It  is  a curious  fact  that  this  is  the  only  known  cran- 
berry plantation  of  its  kind  in  the  world,  but  it  has 
proved  a grand  success  to  its  owner  in  a financial  sense, 
and  is  well  worth  a long  trip  to  see.” 

From  the  above  statement,  however,  lean  see  no  special 
inducement  to  abandon  the  well  settled  principle  of 
making  bogs  on  good,  healthy  swamps,  with  plenty  of 
mud  for  a foundation — nor  do  I approve  of  letting  grass 
grow  up  among  the  plants,  albeit  it  may  be  without  in- 
jury to  them.  I will  surely  say,  that  such  has  not  been 
my  experience,  and  I believe  in  keeping  the  hay  crop  and 
and  the  cranberry  crop  separate.  In  the  light  of  the 


SOME  STATISTICS  OF  CRANBERRY  CULTURE.  41 


facts  and  figures  which  I have  already  presented,  there 
appears  to  be  no  special  inducement,  for  the  present  at 
least,  to  ascend  unto  the  mountain  tops,  and  blast  out  the 
rocks,  for  the  purpose  of  making  a cranberry  bed,  and 
plant  vines  in  the  gravel,  while  we  can  do  tolerably 
well  with  them  in  a good,  soft  foundation  nearer  home. 

To  offset  this  Wisconsin  story,  it  may  not  be  out  of 
place  to  state  that  a celebrated  grower  in  the  Cape  in- 
formed the  writer  a short  time  ago,  that  he  had  a piece 
of  bog  on  the  Cape,  which  in  1884,  paid  him  237%  per 
cent ; but  the  yield  in  this  latter  case  must  be  regarded 
as  exceptional.  Nor  would  I have  it  understood  that 
such  cases  as  I have  cited  above  are  the  invariable  rule. 
It  depends  on  the  season,  and  on  the  care  given  the  bog. 
Sometimes  the  season  is  poor ; frosts  or  insects  get  the 
best  of  the  grower,  and  the  bog  does  not  “pan  out”  as 
well  as  the  owner  could  wish,  or  expect.  But,  taking  one 
year  with  another,  and  under  good  management,  the 
money  put  into  cranberry  bogs  may  be  considered  a tol- 
erably safe  investment.  The  market  is  not  overstocked  ; 
only  a limited  area  of  this  country,  so  far  as  known,  is 
suitable  for  the  production  of  cranberries  of  superior  ex- 
cellence ; and  the  exportation  will  be  every  year  on  the 
increase.  With  these  facts  to  enlighten  us,  we  may  go 
on  for  an  indefinite  period,  or  until  all  the  available  bog 
is  taken  up,  with  the  assurance  that  the  market  will  ex- 
pand as  fast  as  the  production  increases. 


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Fruits,  Flowers,  Etc., 

Cattle,  Sheep,  and  Swine, 
Dogs,  Etc.,  Horses,  Riding,  Etc., 

Poultry,  Pigeons,  and  Bees, 

Angling  and  Fishing, 

Boating,  Canoeing,  and  Sailing, 

Field  Sports  and  Natural  History, 

Hunting,  Shooting,  Etc., 
Architecture  and  Building, 

Landscape  Gardening, 

Household  and  Miscellaneous. 


PUBLISHERS  AND  IMPORTERS. 

ORAN GdC  cJTJDD  OO., 

52  & 54  Lafayette  Place,  New  YorK. 


STANDARD  BOOKS. 


Mushrooms.  How  to  Grow  Them. 

For  home  use  fresh  Mushrooms  are  a delicious,  highly  nutritious  and 
wholesome  delicacy;  and  for  market  they  are  less  bulky  than  eggs, 
and,  when  properly  handled,  no  crop  is  more  remunerative.  Anyone 
who  has  an  ordinary  house  cellar,  woodshed,  or  barn  cau  grow  Mush- 
rooms. This  is  the  most  practical  work  on  the  subject  ever  written, 
and  the  only  book  on  growing  Mushrooms  ever  published  in  America. 
The  whole  subject  is  treated  in  detail,  minutely  and  plainly,  as  only  a 
practical  man,  actively  engaged  in  Mushroom  growing,  can  handle* it. 
The  author  describes  how  he  himself  grows  Mushrooms,  and  how  they 
are  grown  for  profit  by  the  leading  market  gardeners,  and  for  home 
use  by  the  most  successful  private  growers.  The  book  is  amply  and 
pointedly  illustrated,  with  engravings  drawn  from  nature  expressly 
for  this  work.  By  Wm.  Falconer.  Is  nicely  printed  and  bound  in 


cloth.  Price,  post-paid 1.5Q 

Allen's  New  American  Farm  Book. 

The  very  best  work  on  the  subject ; comprising  all  that  can  be  con- 
densed into  an  available  volume.  Originally  by  Richard  L.  Allen. 
Revised  and  greatly  enlarged  by  Lewis  F.  Allen.  Cloth,  12mo._.  2.50 


Henderson’s  Gardening  for  Profit. 

By  Peter  Henderson.  New  edition.  Entirely  rewritten  and  greatly 
enlarged.  The  standard  work  on  Market  and  Family  Gardening. 
The  successful  experience  of  the  author  for  more  than  thirty  years, 
and  his  willingness  to  tell,  as  he  does  in  this  work,  the  secret  of  his 
success  for  the  benefit  of  others,  enables  him  to  give  most  valuable 
information.  The  book  is  profusely  illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo_._  2.00 

Fuller’s  Practical  Forestry. 

A Treatise  on  the  Propagation,  Planting,  and  Cultivation,  with  a de- 
scription and  the  botanical  and  proper  names  of  all  the  indigenous 
trees  of  the  United  States,  both  Evergreen  and  Deciduous,  with  Notes 
on  a large  number  of  the  most  valuable  Exotic  Species.  By  Andrew 
S.  Fuller,  author  of  “Grape  Culturist,”  “Small  Fruit  Culturist,”  etc. 

1.50 

The  Dairyman’s  Manual. 

By  Henry  Stewart,  author  of  “The  Shepherd’s  Manual,”  “Irriga- 
tion,” etc.  A useful  and  practical  work  by  a writer  who  is  well 
known  as  thoroughly  familiar  with  the  subject  of  which  he  writes. 
Cloth,  12m o - - 2.00 

Truck  Farming  at  the  South. 

A work  giving  the  experience  of  a successful  grower  of  vegetables  or 
“ grain  truck”  for  Northern  markets.  Essential  to  any  one  who  con- 
templates entering  this  promising  field  of  Agriculture.  By  A.  Oemler, 
of  Georgia.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

Harris  on  the  Pig. 

New  edition.  Revised  and  enlarged  by  the  author.  The  points  of  the 
various  English  and  American  breeds  are  thoroughly  discussed,  and 
the  great  advantage  of  using  thoroughbred  males  clearly  shown.  The 
work  is  equally  valuable  to  the  farmer  who  keeps  but  few  pigs,  and  to 
the  breeder  on  an  extensive  scale.  By  Joseph  Harris.  Illustrated. 
Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

Jones’s  Peanut  Plant— Its  Cultivation  and  Uses. 

A practical  Book,  iustructing  the  beginner  how  to  raise  good  crops 
cf  Peanuts.  By  B.  W.  Jones,  Surry  Co.,  Va.  Paper  Cover, 50 


STANDARD  BOOKS. 


3 


Barry’s  Fruit  Garden. 

By  P.  Barry.  A standard  work  on  fruit  and  fruit-trees  ; the  author 
having  had  over  thirty  years’  practical  experience  at  the  head  of  one 
of  the  largest  nurseries  in  this  country.  New  edition,  revised  up  to 
date.  Invaluable  to  all  fruit-growers.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo.  2.00 

The  Propagation  of  Plants. 

By  Andrew  S.  Fuller.  Illustrated  with  numerous  engravings.  An 
eminently  practical  and  useful  work.  Describing  the  process  of  hy- 
bridizing and  crossing  species  and  varieties,  and  also  the  many  differ- 
ent modes  by  which  cultivated  plants  may  be  propagated  and  multi- 
plied. Cloth,  12mo - 1.50 

Stewart’s  Shepherd’s  Manual. 

A Valuable  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Sheep,  for  American  farmers  and 
sheep  growers.  It  is  so  plain  that  a farmer,  or  a farmer’s  son,  who 
has  never  kept  a sheep,  may  learn  from  its  pages  how  to  manage  a 
flock  successfully,  and  yet  so  complete  that  even  the  experienced 
shepherd  may  gather  many  suggestions  from  it.  The  results  of  per- 
sonal experience  of  some  years  with  the  characters  of  the  various  mod- 
ern breeds  of  sheep,  and  the  sheep-raising  capabilities  of  many  portions 
of  our  extensive  territory  and  that  of  Canada— and  the  careful  study  of 
the  diseases  to  which  our  sheep  are  chiefly  subject,  with  those  by  which 
they  may  eventually  be  afflicted  through  unforeseen  accidents — as  well 
as  the  methods  of  management  called  for  under  our  circumstances,  are 
here  gathered.  By  Henry  Stewart.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

Allen’s  American  Cattle. 

Their  History,  Breeding,  and  Management.  By  Lewis  F.  Allen.  This 
Book  will  be  considered  indispensable  by  every  breeder  of  live  stock. 
The  large  experience  of  the  author  in  improving  the  character  of 
American  herds  adds  to  the  weight  of  his  observations,  and  has 
enabled  him  to  produce  a work  which  will  at  once  make  good  his 
claims  as  a standard  authority  on  the  subject.  New  and  revised 
edition.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo...- - _ 2 50 

Fuller’s  Grape  Culturist. 

By.  A.  S.  Fuller.  This  is  one  of  the  very  best  of  works  on  the  culture 
of  the  hardy  grapes,  with  full  directions  for  all  departments  of  propa- 
gation, culture,  etc.,  with  150  excellent  engravings,  illustrating  plant- 
ing, training,  grafting,  etc.  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

White’s  Cranberry  Culture. 

Contents  Natural  History. — History  of  Cultivation. — Choice  of 
Location. — Preparing  the  Ground. — Plan  ting  the  Vines. — Management 
of  Meadows. — Flooding — Enemies  and  Difficulties  Overcome. — Pick- 
ing.— Keeping. — Profit  and  Loss. — Letters  from  Practical  Growers. — 
Insects  Injurious  to  the  Cranberry.  By  Joseph  J.  White.  A practi- 
cal grower.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo.  New  and  revised  edition.  1.25 

Herbert’s  Hints  to  Horse-Keepers. 

This  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  popular  works  on  the  Horse  in  this 
country.  A Complete  Manual  for  Horsemen,  embracing : How  to 
Breed  a Horse  ; How  to  Buy  a Horse  ; How  to  Break  a Horse  ; How 
to  Use  a Horse  ; How  to  Feed  a Horse ; How  to  Physic  a Horse  (Allo- 
pathy or  Homoepathy) ; How  to  Groom  a Horse ; How  to  Drive  a 
Horse  ; How  to  Ride  a Horse,  etc.  By  the  late  Henry  William  Her- 
bert (Frank  Forester),  Beautifully  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo.-_  1.75 


4 STANDARD  BOOKS. 

Henderson’s  Practical  Floriculture. 

By  Peter  Henderson.  A guide  to  the  successful  propagation  and 
cultivation  of  florists’  plants.  The  work  is  not  one  for  florists  and 
gardeners  only,  hut  the  amateur’s  wants  are  constantly  kept  in  mind, 
and  we  have  a very  complete  treatise  on  the  cultivation  of  flowers 
under  glass,  or  in  the  open  air,  suited  to  those  who  grow  flowers  for 
pleasure  as  well  as  those  who  make  them  a matter  of  trade.  The 
work  is  characterized  by  the  same  radical  common  sense  that  marked 
the  author’s  “ Gardening  for  Profit,”  and  it  holds  a high  place  in  the 
estimation  of  lovers  of  agriculture.  Beautifully  illustrated.  New  and 
enlarged  edition.  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

Harris’s  Talks  on  Manures. 

By  Joseph  Harris,  M.  S.,  author  of  “ Walks  and  Talks  on  the  Farm,” 
“Harrison  the  Pig.”  etc.  Revised  and  enlarged  by  the  author.  A 
series  of  familiar  and  practical  talks  between  the  author  and  the  dea- 
con, the  doctor,  and  other  neighbors,  on  the  whole  subject  of  manures 
and  fertilizers  ; including  a chapter  specially  written  for  it  by  Sir  John 
BennetLawes,  of  Rothainsted,  England.  Cloth,  12mo 1.75 

Waring’s  Draining  for  Profit  and  Draining  for  Health. 

This  book  is  a very  complete  and  practical  treatise,  the  directions  in 
which  are  plain,  and  easily  followed.  The  subject  of  thorough  farm 
drainage  is  discussed  in  all  its  bearings,  and  also  that  more  extensive 
land  drainage  by  which  the  sanitary  condition  of  any  district  may  be 
greatly  improved,  even  to  the  banishment  of  fever  and  ague,  typhoid 
and  malarious  fever.  By  Geo.  E.  Waring,  Jr  Illustrated,  Cloth  12mo. 

1.50 

The  Practical  Rabbit-Keeper. 

By  Cuniculus.  Illustrated.  A comprehensive  work  on  keeping  and 
raising  Rabbits  for  pleasure  as  well  as  for  profit.  The  book  is  abun 
dantly  illustrated  with  all  the  various  Courts,  Warrens,  Hutches, 
Fencing,  etc.,  and  also  with  excellent  portraits  of  the  most  important 
species  of  rabbits  throughout  the  world.  12mo - 1.50 

ftuinby’s  New  Bee-Keeping’. 

The  Mysteries  of  Bee-keeping  Explained.  Combining  the  results  of 
Fifty  Years’  Experience,  with  the  latest  discoveries  and  inventions, 
and  presenting  the  most  approved  methods,  forming  a complete  work. 
Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

Profits  in  Poultry. 

Useful  and  Ornamental  Breeds  and  their  Profitable  Management.  This 
excellent  work  contains  the  combined  experience  of  a number  of  prac- 
tical men  in  all  departments  of  poultry  raising.  It  is  profusely  illus- 
trated and  forms  an  unique  and  important  addition  to  our  poultry  lit- 
erature. Cloth,  12mo 1.00 

Barn  Plans  and  Outbuildings. 

Two  Hundred  and  Fifty-seven  Illustrations.  A most  Valuable  Work, 
full  of  Ideas,  Hints,  Suggestions,  Plans,  etc.,  for  the  Construction  of 
Barns  and  Outbuildings,  by  Practical  writers.  Chapters  are  devoted, 
among  other  subjects,  to  the  Economic  Erection  and  Use  of  Barns. 
Grain  Barns,  House  Barns,  Cattle  Barns,  Sheep  Barns,  Corn  Houses, 
Smoke  Houses,  Ice  Houses,  Pig  Pens,  Granaries,  etc.  There  are  like- 
wise chapters  upon  Bird  Houses,  Dog  Houses,  Tool  Sheds,  Ventila- 
tors, Roofs  and  Roofing,  Doors  and  Fastenings,  Work  Shops,  Poultry 
Houses,  Mhnure  Sheds,  Barn  Yards,  Root  Pits,  etc.  Recently  pub- 
lished. Cloth,  1 2mo 1.50 


STANDARD  BOOKS. 


Parsons  on  the  Rose. 

By  Samuel  B.  Parsons.  A treatise  on  the  propagation,  culture,  and 
history  of  the  rose.  New  and  revised  edition.  In  his  work  upon  the 
rose,  Mr.  Parsons  has  gathered  up  the  curious  legends  concerning 
the  flower,  and  gives  us  an  idea  of  the  esteem  in  which  it  was  held  in 
former  times.  A simple  garden  classification  has  been  adopted,  and 
the  leading  varieties  under  each  class  enumerated  and  briefly 
described.  The  chapters  on  multiplication,  cultivation,  and  training 
are  very  full,  and  the  work  is  altogether  one  of  the  most  complete 
before  the  public.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo ___ .1.00 

Heinrich's  Window  Flower  Garden. 

The  author  is  a practical  florist,  and  this  enterprising  volume  em- 
bodies his  personal  experiences  in  Window  Gardening  during  a long 
period.  New  and  enlarged  edition.  By  Julius  J.  Heinrich.  Fully 


Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo ,75 

Liautard’s  Chart  of  the  Age  of  the  Domestic  Animals. 

Adopted  by  the  United  States  Army.  Enables  one  to  accurately  de- 
termine the  age  of  horses,  cattle,  sheep,  dogs,  and  pigs 50 

Pedder’s  Land  Measurer  for  Farmers. 


A convenient  Pocket  Companion,  showing  at  once  the  contents  of 
any  piece  of  land,  when  its  length  and  width  are  known,  up  to  1,500 
feet  either  way,  with  various  other  useful  farm  tables.  Cloth,  18mo; 

.60 

How  to  Plant  and  What  to  Do  with  the  Crops. 

With  other  valuable  hints  for  the  Farm,  Garden  and  Orchard.  By 
Mark  W.  Johnson.  Illustrated.  Contents  : Times  for  Sowing  Seeds  : 
Covering  Seeds  ; Field  Crops ; Garden  or  Vegetable  Seeds,  Sweet 
Herbs,  etc.;  Tree  Seeds  ; Flower  Seeds  ; Fruit  Trees ; Distances  Apart 
for  Fruit  Trees  and  Shrubs  ; Profitable  Farming  ; Green  or  Manuring 
Crops  ; Root  Crops ; Forage  Plants  ; What  to  do  with  the  Crops  ; The 
Rotation  of  Crops;  Varieties;  Paper  Covers,  post-paid. 50 

Your  Plants. 

Plain  and  Practical  Directions  for  the  Treatment  of  Tender  and  Hardy 
Plants  in  the  House  and  in  the  Garden.  By  James  Sheehan.  The 
above  title  well  describes  the  character  of  the  work — “ Plain  and  Prac- 
tical.” The  author,  a commercial  florist  and  gardener,  has  endeavored, 
in  this  work,  to  answer  the  many  questions  asked  by  his  customers,  as 
to  the  proper  treatment  of  plants.  The  book  shows  all  through  that 
its  author  is  a practical  man,  and  he  writes  as  one  with  a large  store 
of  experience.  The  work  better  meets  the  wants  of  the  amateur  who 
grows  a few  plants  in  the  window,  or  has  a small  flower  Garden,  than 
a larger  treatise  intended  for  those  who  cultivate  plants  upon  a more 
extended- scale.  Price,  post-paid,  paper  covers. .40 

Husmann’s  American  Grape-Growing  and  Wine-Making. 

By  George  Husmann  of  Talcoa  vineyards,  Napa,  California.  New  and 
enlarged  edition.  With  contributions  from  well-known  grape-growers, 
giving  a wide  range  of  experience.  The  author  of  this  book  is  a 
recognized  uthority  on  the  subject.  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

The  Scientific  Angler. 

A general  and  instructive  work  on  Artistic  Angling,  by  the  late  David 
Foster.  Complied  by  his  Sons.  With  an  Introductory  Chapter  and 
Copious  Foot  Notes,  by  William  C.  Harris,  Editor  of  the  American 
Angler.”  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 


(5 


12  0732421 


Keeping  One  Cow. 

A collection  of  Prize  Essays,  and  selections  from  a number  of  other 
Essays,  with  editorial  notes,  suggestions,  etc.  This  book  gives  the 
latest  information,  and  in  a clear  and  condensed  form,  upon  the  man- 
agement of  a single  Milch  Cow.  Illustrated  with  full-page  engrav- 
ings of  the  most  famous  dairy  cows.  Recently  published.  Cloth, 
12mo 1.00 


Law’s  Veterinary  Adviser 

A Guide  to  the  Prevention  and  Treatment  of  Disease  in  Domestic 
Animals.  This  is  one  of  the  best  works  on  this  subject,  and  is  especi- 
ally designed  to  supply  the  need  of  the  busy  American  Farmer,  who 
can  rarely  avail  himself  of  the  advice  of  a Scientific  Veterinarian.  It 
is  brought  up  to  date  and  treats  of  the  Prevention  of  Disease,  as  well 
as  of  the  Remedies.  By  Prof.  Jas.  Law.  Cloth,  Crown  8vo 3.00 


Guenon’s  Treatise  on  Milch  Cows. 

A Treatise  on  the  Bovine  Species  in  General.  An  entirely  new  trans- 
lation of  the  last  edition  of  this  popular  and  instructive  book.  By 
Thos.  J.  Hand,  Secretary  of  the  American  Jersey  Cattle  Club.  With 
over  100  Illustrations,  especially  engraved  for  this  work.  Cloth,  12mo. 

1.00 

The  Cider  Maker’s  Handbook. 

A complete  guide  for  making  and  keeping  pure  cider.  By  J.  M.  Trow- 
bridge. Fully  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo. 1.00 


Long’s  Ornamental  Gardening  for  Americans. 

A treatise  on  Beautifying  Homes,  Rural  Districts,  and  Cemeteries.  A 
plain  and  practical  work  at  a moderate  price,  with  numerous  illus- 
trations, and  instructions  so  plain  that  they  may  be  readily  followed. 
By  Elias  A.  Long.  Landscape  Architect.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo. 

2.00 

The  Dogs  of  Great  Britain,  America  and  Other  Countries. 

New,  enlarged  and  revised  edition.  Their  breeding*  training  and 
management,  in  health  and  disease  ; comprising  all  the  essential  parts 
of  the  two  standard  works  on  the  dog,  by  “ Stonehenge,”  thereby  fur- 
nishing for  $2  what  once  cost  $11.25.  Contains  Lists  of  all  Premiums 
given  at  the  last  Dog  Shows.  It  Describes  the  Best  Game  and  Hunt- 
ing Grounds  in  America.  Contains  over  One  Hundred  Beautiful  En- 
gravings, embracing  most  noted  Dogs  in  both  Continents,  making  to- 
gether, with  Chapters  by  American  Writers,  the  most  Complete  Dog 
Book  ever  published.  Cloth,  12mo. 2.00 

Stewart’s  Feeding  Animals. 

By  Elliot  W.  Stewart.  A new  and  valuable  practical  work  upon  tho 
laws  of  animal  growth,  ^specially  applied  to  the  rearing  and  feeding 
horses,  cattle,  diary  cows,  sheep  and  swine.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo. 

2.00 

How  to  Co-operate. 

A Manual  for  Co-operators.  By  Herbert  Myrick.  This  book  describes 
the  how  rather  than  the  wherefore  of  co-operation.  In  other  words  it 
tells  how  to  manage  a co-operative  store,  farm  or  factory,  and  co-op- 
erative dairying,  banking  and  fire  insurance,  and  co-operative  farmers’ 
and  women’s  exchanges  for  both  buying  and  selling.  The  directions 
given  are  based  on  the  actual  experience  of  successful  co-operative  en- 
terprises in  all  parts  of  the  United  States.  The  character  and  useful- 
ness of  the  book  commend  it  to  the  attention  of  all  men  and  women 
who  desire  to  better  their  condition.  12mo.  Cloth. I -50 


